BLAST FROM THE PAST | Loudmouth Promotions

2025 Blast From The Past Rules

Contact Jarrod Blades on Facebook messenger or text 989-429-5649 for all questions.

First place $10,000

Second place $2500

Third place $1000

With 40 or more cars:

First place $10,000

Second place $3500

Third place $1750

Fourth place $1000

Fifth place 1000$

Less than 10 cars will default to 100% payback.

We will be awarding up to 3 Mad Dog awards in this class, the prize will be $1000 and a custom plaque if earned.

Trophies will be 5ft 4ft and 3ft

All drivers must wear long sleeves, a helmet, pants and closed toed shoes to compete. Also must use a lap belt only in the car. Eye protection is mandatory.

Ethics clause:

Loudmouth Promotions will always uphold confidentiality between driver and promotor when regarding rule questions, registrations and all other build procedures. We understand what it is to build at this level and we will not gossip with other drivers in a distasteful manner. We feel this bias harms the sport and can put drivers at a disadvantage.

Strongarm clause:

Loudmouth Promotions will NOT be strongarmed or influenced by any driver on rules, regulations, entry fees or anything of the like. ALL drivers will conform to ALL rules at ALL times or you be disqualified from the event regardless of “status”, experience or credibility.

Behavior clause:

Drivers and their crews will demonstrate a respectful behavior toward all Loudmouth officials, and all other drivers, at all times. There will be zero tolerance for profanity, fighting, destruction of property or any other destructive behavior at any Loudmouth events. If you fail to demonstrate respectful behavior at our shows you will be asked to leave and will be banned from future Loudmouth events. This is a rule like all others and MUST be followed!!

Sandbagging clause:

Sandbagging will NOT be tolerated! You will be allowed to drive, but you will not camp in the corner and win this show! This is a rule like every rule and must be followed!

Team driving will not be tolerated. If we see team driving we will break it up.

Timing will go as follows; you will be allowed 30 seconds to make contact. Do not milk the clock and put us in the position to flag someone for sandbagging. Keep a good pace and keep the show moving. We will NOT have a 3-4 hour feature! This is a rule like all others and must be followed!

General rules:

No all black cars. At least a side panel, meaning a fender or door must be a color that isn’t black.

Officials rulings and decisions are final.

No decorating cars with profanity or hate speech. Have your number on your door or roof sign highly visible so we can distinguish drivers.

Cars allowed in the competition;

Any American made V8 passenger car including old iron will be allowed. No el Caminos, no hearses, limos, jeeps, ambulances, trucks, suburbans, suvs or vans. If you have a car in question ask first! Station wagons, imperials and suicide Lincolns will be allowed!

Wording definitions:

“Must”: this means “has to be”.
“May”: this means you can, but if you don’t, there are no other options available unless specified.

This class for Iron Invasion 2025 will be fresh cars only. No exceptions.

For Iron Invasion 2025 there will be no pre bending of rear frames before the competition.

Each car will be allowed 2 fires max.

Bumper height: Bumper heights will be checked as you pull on the track, if you fail the bumper height rule you will be disqualified FROM THE EVENT. NO fresh cars will be allowed in the consi. Bumper heights must be: 26” to the top of the highest point of front bumper and 14” to the lowest point of the back bumper off the ground.

If you decide to weld nuts to the top of your front bumper for wire, they must be 1” nuts max, these will not be included in your measurement.

Nothing else can be welded to the top of the bumper besides the 1” nuts for wire.

Rust repair must be made with 1/8” plate max, only over the area in question on the frame. Sheet metal rust repair must be done with 14 or 16ga sheet steel. You will not be allowed to have 1/4” plate all over your frame for rust repair. If you use thicker plate than whats allowed you will remove it completely and run with nothing.

NO passengers will be allowed at this event.

All weld passes for anything you are allowed to weld may not exceed (1) bead 1/2” wide.

Inspection is very important in this class, so it will be handled as such. If we can point to the rule sheet and show a violation, you will be made to make a correction.

We will be scoping the frame and drilling at our discretion, do not weld on the frame more than what’s allowed.

Things you will be loaded for:

Restubbing a car in any way or hybriding a sub frame car.
Wedging the rear quarters beyond a fixable point. (If they are beat down you will be made to stand them back up, see below)
Material hidden in the frame that is not there from the factory.
If your engine protector is more than what’s allowed and you are unwilling to cut it.
Showing up with a pre ran, this class for Iron Invasion 2025 will be fresh cars only.
If you do not have a 1” body gap.

We are NOT looking to load drivers, but the rules must be followed!!

Blast From the Past cars will be allowed to add any combination of a total of (3) plates per side of frame at any time before, or during the competition. This means (3) on the drivers rail and (3) on the passenger rail. You may choose either a size of 4”x6”x1/4” or 5”x5”x1/4”. You may mix and match sizes. No rhombus or parallelogram plates, plate must be a square or rectangle shape and cover an area of no more than 4”x6” or 5”x5”, whichever size you pick. Plates cannot be relocated during the event. You choose where to put your plates, you may fold, plug weld, bend, etc, if you cut the plate you throw away the extra piece. Plates must be on any outside face of the frame, do not cut the frame open and use the plate as a pin. Plates must not be used as a driveline kicker. Plates must not protrude through the floor or body. We reserve the right to drill the plates and verify thickness. Plates may be added at any time during the event of any combination, for instance, you may arrive with 1 plate on per side then add 2 after heat, etc. Plates may be added at drivers discretion, up to 3 plates per side max.

You may add (4) locations of (4) strands of 9 wire at any time before or during the event. Wire must be free floating. No welding of 9 wire in any way.

For Iron Invasion 2025 no frame shaping or tampering with the frame will be allowed after the heat. You may curl your trunk and shape the body in the trunk area, and you may bring your front frame back down level, but do not frame shape, hammer on, weld on or otherwise tamper with the frame over and above what is needed to weld your plates on. This means if your frame is puckered and you do not have any plates left to add do NOT hammer it flat. Remember you cannot relocate your plates. Add them with discretion. Cars will be reinspected before the consi and feature. No sheet metal welding be allowed between the heat and feature.

Body swaps will be allowed but must be ford/ford Gm/gm Chrysler/Chrysler. Chrysler sub frames must run in the same make and model they came in from factory. This means no imperial sub frames in any other car but an imperial that came with a sub frame. This goes for all other cars. No drilling new mounts or building brackets off the frame to create new mounts. Body must bolt on direct. We are allowing this because it is easier to obtain a body and frame separate in most cases, especially with newer fords, so do NOT abuse this rule!

Rules:

Body/ trunk:

Remove all plastic, glass, molding, dash, interior parts, rear decking in wagons, all flammable objects from the vehicle
Front fenders may be creased.
You’ll be allowed (6) 3/8 bolts to bolt the fender skins together on all 4 fenders. These bolts must only be used to bolt the sheet metal layers of the fenders together. You may use 1” diameter washers max, no welding of hardware.
You’ll be allowed (10) 3/8 bolts to bolt your hood sheet metal together. These must be used to hold hood sheet metal together only. You may use 1” diameter washers max, no welding of hardware.
Speaker deck may be removed.
Trunk may be welded in 12 spots max with 4”x6”x1/4” plates max. Trunk plates must be welded to sheet metal only.
Trunk lids may be canoed from front to back and quarters may be creased.
You must have an inspection hole on each side of the trunk lid within 6” of the sides and must be an 8” diameter circle or 8”x8” square. You may bolt the layers together around each hole with (4) 3/8 bolts.
Trunk lids must be factory for the car you’re running. No doubling or adding material to the trunk lid. Aluminum trunk lids may be swapped out for a steel trunk lid as long it’s from the same make and model of car.
There must be a 3.5” distance from the outside edge of the frame to outside edge of trunk sheet metal. The sheet metal for the measurement must be the factory rear quarter sheet metal.
Quarters must remain upright, no wedging or laying over rear quarters. This means you may pull the rear quarters IN towards the center of the car, do not lay them DOWN. If you lay the rear quarters down AT ALL you will be made to cut your trunk lid free and stand your rear quarters back up.
Rear quarters may be folded up underneath the trunk and bolted through the trunk floor with (3) 3/8 bolts per side. These bolts must only be long enough go through the rear quarter and the trunk floor.
Trunk floor may be pushed up to the top of frame max. No other creasing or manipulating the trunk floor in any way.
No other material can be added to body or trunk lid. No welding of seams on doors or trunk lid in between the plates allowed.
Hoods must be open for inspection and may be wired in 3 spots per side with (4) stands of 9 wire or you may weld (3) 2”x2” angle 2” long max to fender and hood, per driver and passenger side, and bolt together with a 3/8 bolt.
If you decide to use wire you may weld a 2.5” diameter washer around the hole on the fender and hood and run your wire through.
No back window bars will be allowed of any type.
You may fold the window opening lips of the doors over and weld with (5) 1” tacks per door. No other material can be added.
You must either run an inner OR outer drivers door skin 1/4” max, door skins are mandatory in this class! Outer door skins cannot exceed 3” past the front and rear seam. Door skins must be welded to the rocker only on the bottom, no tying into frame or anything else.
You may skin the front driver and passenger doors only.
Inner door skins cannot go more than 2” past the front or rear door seam. They must stop at the window opening. They cannot protrude through the floor in any way. Do not beat the floor down to mount inner door skins.
If using inner door skins, the front drivers door may be welded with 4” wide 1/4 thick strap solid. If you choose this option the drivers side will get (8) 4”x4”x1/4” plates to weld the rear door on 4 door models. The passenger side will get 16 plates to weld both doors with inner door skin, 8 plates with outer door skin, and 8 plates on the passenger side on 2 door models with inner door skin.
Gas tank doors may be welded solid with no extra material added.
No shortening the trunk, body or frame, to mount bumper, or for any other reason, on any car.
No other body seam welding or added material to the body will be allowed other than what’s stated.
Firewall must remain its factory shape. No creasing, hammering or reshaping of any kind will be allowed. You may cut the firewall if needed but no reshaping.

Core support/ spacers:

You may have a single 1/4” thick expanded metal or a single 1/8” thick radiator guard bolted to core support only in front of radiator with (5) 3/8 bolts per side, or you may run a factory condenser attached the same way. No other modifications to the core support will be allowed. No other radiator protectors will be allowed.
To mount radiator you may use (2) pieces of 5/8 threaded rod and they must be ran vertically, strait up and down, through the bottom of the core support and you may weld (2) 2” wide 1/4” thick tabs to the top of the core support to mount the rod. Rods cannot run through the hood. No other welding to core support allowed. Washers may be 3”x3” max material.
You may use ratchet straps, 9 wire, or seatbelts to hold radiator in if you do not use threaded rod. No welding to the core support of you do this.
Core support spacers can be 3”x3”x8” material max. These must run strait up and down.
Core support spacers must stop at the bottom of the core support. No recessing spacers into the core support.
You may weld the core support spacers to the top of the frame and core support only. No recessing spacers in to the frame.
No gussets or kickers mounted to core support spacers allowed.
Core support spacers must mount in the factory location of the core support body bolts and the body bolts, or threaded rod, must go through them.
You may lay a 4”x6”x1/4” plate over top of the core support body mount hole and weld this plate to your core support spacer, bumper and the frame. Must be a rectangle shape and must not cover an area more than 4”x6”. This must touch the front bumper. Must lay flat on the top of the frame, underneath the core support spacer. No using this plate as a gusset or kicker in anyway. 1 per driver side and 1 per passenger side.

Body bolts:

You may change out a total of (6) body bolts for 5/8” x 30” rod. You may use (3) nuts, and (3) 4”x4”x1/4” washers max to mount max. NO welding of this rod in any way shape or form. Rod must stay a vertical piece, do not bend or angle it.
If you swap out your core support mounts this counts as 2 of your 6.
The rest of your body bolts may be switched to 5/8” 6” long max bolts and you must maintain a 1” gap between body and frame. You may use (2) 3”x3”x1/4”washers per body bolt max. Body mount bolts and hardware must be free floating, no welding. Must function like factory. No welding of body bolts in any way.
Body mount spacers cannot exceed a 3”x3” square area, and may be tack welded to the frame with (2) 1” tack welds. No welding body spacers to the body.
Body mount spacers must not protrude through the body in any way.
Body bolts can only go through 1 thickness of frame, no pinning the frame with body bolts.
Body bolts and core support mounts must remain in the factory location. No relocating body bolts in any way.
No adding body bolts to extra locations in any way, except 71-6 gm sedans, they will be allowed to add 2 body bolts in the package tray where the factory holes are.
Body must not be welded to frame or bumpers in any way unless specified.

Cages/ roof bar/ gas tank protector:

You must have a cage that consists of (2) door bars, a dash bar and a rear seat bar. No double stacking cage bars.
2”x6” or 4”x4” max material must be used for your cage, roof bar, gussets and gas tank protector. Cage material may not exceed this size at any point, for any reason, unless specified.
Cage material must be made of steel tubing only, or pipe, no homemade cage bars.
You must have a single roof bar in the rear door area, this must weld to top of cage only.
You may have (2) 6” long extensions off roof bar to mount roof bar to roof. 3/4” bolts max, bolts must go through extensions and roof only.
You may have a 12” extension attached to your roof bar on top of the roof to mount your roof sign. This may have (1) bolt through the roof max.
No cage gussets coming through the roof to attach to roof bar will be allowed.
Cage door bars may go to firewall and cannot extend more than 10” past the front seam of the rear door on 4 door models.
On 2 door models the cage side bars must stop at the firewall and the rear wheel tubs.
You may run a single 2”x2” windshield bar from dash bar to roof bar or you may bolt (2) 3” wide flat stock straps from your firewall to the roof. No more than 6” of contact on roof and firewall if you use strap. Strapping may be no thicker than 3/8”. Or you may run (2) locations of 9 wire from roof to firewall.
Dash bar must be mounted with a 6” gap from the distributor protector and must be mounted at least 4” off the floor
A single down bar may be welded in the center of the front door area, do not angle it, must be strait up and down. Do not beat the floor down to the frame, do not weld to anything but the top of the floor sheet metal. This bar cannot extend through the floor in any way. Do not cover a body mount with this bar. No other down bars to body will be allowed.
Gas tank protector must not exceed 32” wide where it meets the rear firewall.
Cage must remain between the front and rear firewalls, this means no cage components can protrude through or come out past the front or rear firewall in any way. Cages cannot spill out of the front or rear window area. Keep your cage within the driver/ passenger area of the car.
Gas tank protectors on leaf spring station wagons must not be further back than the front of the rear axle. Coil spring station wagons will adhere to the rear firewall rule. Call if you have questions.
You may have a center bar to attach your shifter to attaching only to dash bar and rear seat bar and must be 4” off the floor
Cage side bars, rear seat bar, and gas tank protector must be mount with a 6” gap from the floor minimum.
Seat bar must be mounted directly behind the seat.
No kickers to frame or anywhere else from the cage or of any type will be allowed.

Drivers compartment:

Battery must be moved to passenger seat area and secured to body or cage only, 2 batteries max
Steering columns may be aftermarket, must not strengthen car
Steering column mounting mechanisms must not protrude past firewall into the engine compartment
Pedals may be aftermarket and must be mounted to the floor in front of the seat only.
Trans coolers must be mounted in the passenger seat area to body or cage only, do not mount them by your head.
No mounting your components to attach to or butt up to the frame or driveline
Mounting components must not strengthen car in any way!
Drivers door may be padded after inspection.

Engine/ trans:

You may run a front plate and lower cradle bolted to the front of the engine, meaning block and heads. Lower cradle side bars cannot extend back from the front engine plate more than 6” past the rear bolt of the engine bosses on the engine block. Oil pan protectors cannot extend past this point from the front of the engine.
You may run a full style mid plate with a distributor protector. This must not connect on the bottom, or the side of the engine to the front lower cradle in any fashion, at any time. Nothing protruding toward the front of the engine from the bottom of the mid plate will be allowed. The mid plate must be a flat vertical plate between the engine and transmission, the top half may be shaped to allow for the distributor protector. Distributor protector must not exceed 12” wide max where it meets the firewall. Distributor protectors of any type must be within 4” of the distributor. If your engine is not a small block Chevy you must use the same format for the mid plate.
You may have a carb halo extending from the front side of the heads or from the front plate to the distributor protector part of the mid plate. Header protectors are allowed. Carb halo bars must be above the heads. This means the only attachment point for the mid plate to the front plate is the carb halo.
If you do not run a full mid plate you may run a distributor protector with a carb halo and it may mount to the front side and back side of the heads and/or transmission bell housing bolts. Carb halo bars must still be above the heads. This also may be connected to your front plate if needed for attachment purposes. If your engine is not a small block Chevy this will still be allowed.
Pulley protectors are allowed. No welding sway bar to pulley protectors. Pulley protectors may protrude forward off the front plate no more than 8”, they may be 14” wide and 6” tall max. If your pulley protector exceeds these measurements send a picture for approval.
Fan shrouds are allowed but there must a 2” gap from the shroud to the frame. This gap must be maintained from the engine front plate to the radiator.
No skid plates allowed.
Any trans brace combination will be allowed but must resemble a Ski style or reputable manufacturer model.
Transmission brace, or any part of it, must not be in contact with the crossmember in any way, and must have a 1” gap up and down, and front to back from the crossmember.
The only way the trans may be fastened to crossmember is with a factory trans mount from a 71-6 gm car. No other method may be used.
If you do not use a factory trans mount, you must still have a 1” gap from crossmember and brace must NOT be fastened to crossmember. You may use a rubber spacer to achieve this, no metal spacers will be allowed.
You may run (2) strands of 9 wire around your trans brace and crossmember. 9 wire must remain within the back 6” of the trans brace and may only wrap around the trans brace and crossmember. 9 wire only may be used for this.
Engine mounts must be stock appearing, solid mounts allowed but must use a nylon bushing.
Engine mounts may be spaced up with a 1/2” 6”x6” steel plate, 1 per side, must weld to the top of engine saddle only and must weld fully underneath the motormounts.
Cadillacs and other nonconventional cars may use this 6”x6”1/2” plate to go from frame rail to saddle to mount engine. Nothing else may be used.
You may run (2) 12” long 3/8 chains from any component of your engine protector to anywhere on frame, 1 per side, 3 links welded max, chains must demonstrate 1 free link of play if the whole 12” isn’t used. No using the chain to weld your engine in solid. No welding links together or any additional welding besides to weld to cradle and frame. Chain links must remain joined together like factory, no cutting, smashing, spreading or manipulating links in any way.
Headers must exit through the hood
If moving transmission crossmember to mount engine, you will be allowed a 3”x3”x6” piece of angle to relocate crossmember. Angle must not protrude through the floor in any way and must be welded only to the center frame rail. Angle must only be used to hold crossmember in place. Crossmember must touch angle. Crossmember must mount to the inside face of the belly rail only, facing the transmission. No recessing crossmember or angle into frame.
Crossmember must either be factory for a car legal in the class with no modifications or a single piece of 2”x2”1/4” tubing strait across attaching to belly rails only. 1 crossmember allowed per car.
Slider drive shafts will be allowed.
Radiators must be mounted in the factory position.
No adding extra coolant capacity in any way. The radiator is the only thing that can hold coolant.

Frames:

You may add the plates as stated at the top of the page.
All coil spring cars will be allowed a 22”x6”x3/8” hump plate contoured to the frame. Must be welded to the outside face of the frame facing the tire. No pinning or recessing into the frame.
Leaf spring cars will be allowed a 12”x6”x1/4” hump plate. Must be welded to the outside face of the frame facing the tire. No pinning or recessing into the frame.
All 1980 and newer fords only will be allowed to tilt the frame at the firewall crush boxes by cutting the 3 tabs and re welding. This is the only way you’ll be allowed to tilt. No adding metal to do this. 1/2” wide weld max to reweld the seams.
2003 and newer fomoco cars cannot be tilted in any way.
All cars that are not 1980-2002 fords will be allowed to reweld the factory firewall area seams on the frame a total of 14”. This area is restricted to 14” from the center of the body mount bolt at the firewall, any direction. Welding must be on a factory frame seam. 1/2” wide bead max.
Cadillacs must have 18” of frame from the front edge of the spring pocket.
No closing the Ys on Y front cars
No shortening the frames on full frame imperials. Sub frame imperials must have the entire factory “hammer head” box. No cutting into the box.
On 98-02 Fomoco cars you may cover the “recall” hole on the hump with 3”x4”x1/8” material. Call if you have questions.
No sleeving bumpers around the frame
Do NOT weld on the frame anywhere other than what is stated.
No heat treating, rusting up, painting or otherwise hiding or tampering with frame other than what’s stated.
No frame shaping of any kind
Rear frame may be dimpled to achieve roll, dimple area must not exceed a 2” area on the top of the frame. Do not frame shape with your dimple.
NO other welding or material can be added to frame.
No bars or kickers to the frame or body will be allowed unless specified.
Frames must bolt to body direct.
No relocating body mounts for any reason.
Nothing will be allowed in the frame other than what’s factory, if we find anything in the frame that wasn’t there from the factory you will be loaded on the spot. This means no stuffing, pinning, or adding material for strength, or any other reason whatsoever.
No restubbing cars for any reason. This means even if it is the same year make and model. No restubbing whatsoever. If we see the car was restubbed you will be loaded. No exceptions. Imperial sub frames can only run in imperials that came with a sub frame. No mix matching or hybriding any car whatsoever.
No spring spacers or anything of the like will be allowed in the spring pockets.

Bumpers and mounting:

Bumper plates allowed will be (1) 4”x9”x3/8” per driver and passenger rail, front and back, must touch bumpers. No rhombus or parallelogram plates, must not cover an area more than 4”x9” on frame. No factory brackets will be allowed to mount bumpers, remove the brackets and use the plate, for front and rear.
You may add filler metal to the 3 remaining sides of the frame with no more than a 1/2” overlap on frame from bumper to secure bumpers on all 4 sides of frame.
No internal bumper shocks allowed.
Replica bumpers are allowed and must resemble a factory bumper.
Replica bumper points cannot exceed 14” from the bumper base where it mounts to the frame. This will be strictly enforced.
Automotive factory stuffed bumpers are allowed.
Tubing bumpers are allowed and cannot exceed 8”x8” material max, the point must protrude no more than 4” off the face and must spread out over a 32” surface area.
Do NOT shorten the frame past where the core support mounts from factory, meaning you must be able to use the core support mount and it must function like factory.
No bumper can exceed the 8”x8” size requirement in any way.
Steel tubing may be used for rear bumpers in place of factory bumpers except on leaf spring cars, leaf spring cars must use the factory bumper from that make, model, and year. No loading of rear bumpers on leaf spring cars. Bumpers on leaf spring cars must remain the factory shape and form.
Rear bumpers on leaf spring station wagons must be mounted to body like factory, do NOT mount the rear bumper to frame!
You’ll be allowed 2”x5”x1/8” 5” long plates, on a 5” on 5” off manner to mount rear bumper to body for leaf spring station wagons
No shortening the trunk on old iron, or any car, to mount rear bumper, and the bumper bracket must not extend more than 9” on frame. Aftermarket rear bumper brackets are allowed but must conform to the rules.
Do not shorten the rear frame.
Bumpers must be at least 5” tall, rear bumpers that are fabricated or tubing must be a square or rectangle shape, will be allowed a 4” point max protruding off the face, spread out over a minimum of 30”.

Suspension/ steering:

All cars must use suspension components from cars legal in the class, a arms may be swapped from crown vic to impala, etc
Spindles must be factory from a car that is legal in this class.
No king pin setups allowed. Ball joints only must be used to hold spindles to a arms.
Tie rods may be aftermarket but the ends must be factory size for the spindle you’re running.
Factory tie rods may be reinforced with a single piece of 1x1 angle in the middle or equivalent.
All steering components must be factory from a car legal for this class, unless specified.
Steering components must be mounted like factory for the car you’re running, no adapter plates of any kind will be allowed.
Aftermarket hub nuts will be allowed.
Aftermarket steering columns will be allowed.
You may add a piece of 2” long 2”x2” tubing to the lower a arm to use a bump stop for the spindle.
Front coil springs must be factory from a car that is legal in this class
A arms cannot be folded or formed to frame. A arm must remain in factory configuration and shape.
Ball joints may be aftermarket.
Ball joints must be welded or bolted to a arms only. No welding ball joints or sleeves to the frame.
You may use a piece of 1” threaded rod as a shock on the front suspension, this must run strait up and down and may be held in with (4) nuts and (4) 3”x3” washers only. Must use factory shock holes to mount. No creating new holes. Hardware used to mount shock must be free floating. No welding.
Do not cut, remove or manipulate the shock tower on top of the spring pocket on 98-02 fords. No frame modifications on any other models will be allowed unless you have to enlarge the factory shock hole to accept the rod, this will be the only modification allowed.
Bushings attaching sway bar to frame must be from a car legal to run this class, and must be bolted to frame like factory. Sway bar cannot be welded to frame.
Sway bar may be bolted solid to lower a arm with (1) 3/4” bolt max per side
Lower a arms cannot be welded solid. The only welding allowed on lower a arms is the bump stops and the lower ball joints.

Front suspension ride height options, you must pick 1 of the 2.

Option 1:

You will be allowed to weld your upper a arms with (2) 2”x6x1/4” straps. 2 straps per upper a arm, 2 on the drivers side and 2 on the passenger side. One strap on the front side of the ball joint and one on the rear side of the ball joint. Must touch a arm. Plate must be a rectangle shape and must not cover an area more than 2”x”6 in any way. No rhombus or parallelogram plates allowed. This will be the only welding allowed on the upper an arms besides the ball joints.

Option 2:

You will be allowed a single piece of 1” steel round bar max 12” long max to run horizontally front to back through the spring and must weld to the bottom of the frame on both sides of the spring pocket. This piece must only be welded to the bottom of the frame and the spring. This may not be positioned up in the spring pocket, weld it to the bottom side of the frame only. This must be 1” away from your threaded rod shock and cannot be welded to it. 1 for the drivers side and 1 for the passengers side.

03 and newer suspension:

Suspension and steering components must be factory configuration, do not run aftermarket struts or racks. Struts, racks and aluminum engine cradle must be 03-11 Fomoco passenger car products.
Fabricated strut mounts will not be allowed.
You may run a single 1/2” bolt 6” long through the bottom of the strut and weld on top of lower a arm for height
Upper a arms may be replaced with factory replacement F150 upper a arms, these must bolt on as a direct swap
You may weld up a 1/2” saddle to BOLT in over top of the aluminum to hold your engine, do NOT weld this in. This saddle may be 14” front to back in the car.
You may run a demo derby parts manufacturer bolt in saddle, ie Budde, Smith Metalworks, etc, no welding of bolt in saddle to the frame
All other suspension rules apply

Rearends/ mounting:

Any rearend may be used, pinion brakes are ok, rearend brace must not make contact with the frame or body before the competition, do NOT mount the rearend to strengthen the car!
Leaf spring cars must run FACTORY leafs. NO aftermarket leafs allowed. Leafs must mount like factory with the factory bushings and brackets
Leaf spring cars may use 1 leaf clamp per leaf where they meet
Aftermarket trailing arms will be allowed for coil spring cars, 2x3 material max. Must be either factory ford or old iron length.
Do not add extra leafs or trailing arms. Rearends must mounted using the factory locations unless specified. No creating new spots to mount rearend in anyway.
You may run front springs in the rear on coil spring cars, 1 set of springs only, springs must be from a car that is legal for this class
Coil to leaf or leaf to coil spring swaps are not allowed
Rear suspension doesn’t have to bounce but must not be held solid in anyway. This means if you use front springs in the rear and it is too rigid to bounce, that is legal, but do not attach the rearend in a solid manner with threaded rod, welding, or tubing, etc.
If you use threaded rod to hold rear springs in, or as a rear shock, you can NOT have a nut on the bottom side of the package tray. Solid rear suspension will not be allowed. Threaded rod may not come through the body.
No front wheel drive to rear wheel drive conversions will be allowed.

Rearend chain option, you must pick 1 of the 2.

Option 1:

You will be allowed (1) 3/8 chain per side of rearend. 1 on the driver side 1 on the passenger side. This must only run around the hump and rearend 1 time and may be bolted together with a single 3/8 bolt. This must loop the hump and rearend on the same side of the car. No other routing of the chain will be allowed. No welding of chain or hardware.

Option 2:

You will be allowed (1) 3/8 chain per side of the rearend, 1 on the driver side 1 on the passenger side. You will be allowed to weld (3) links within 6” of the front of the hump plate, and (3) links within 6” of the rear of the hump plate. These welded links must be on the outside face of the frame facing the tire. No recessing chain into the frame. You may weld (2) links to the rearend. This chain must start in front of the hump plate, come down under the rearend and end behind the hump plate. The chain can only be long enough to do this 1 time. You cannot run multiple passes of chain. No other routing of the chain will be allowed. Chain links must remain joined together like factory, no cutting, smashing, spreading or manipulating links in any way. No welding of chain links other than what is stated.

Watts link options: You must pick 1 of the 2

If you decide to do a watts conversion:

You must remove all factory rearend bolts from the frame brackets.
The factory brackets can stay on the frame but do not beat them down and weld them. Leave them the factory shape.
You may bolt in (2) separate 6”x6” pieces to bolt your upper trailing arms to
Bolts for these must not protrude through the body in any way.
These bolts can only be long enough to hold a nut and function as a bolt to hold the plate in.
You may weld a 3”x3”x4”x1/4” piece of tubing to inside face of the frame to hold your lower trailing arms, bolt may go through 1 thickness of the frame like factory
All other rearend/ mounting rules still apply.

If you decide not to do a watts conversion:

You may replace the upper trailing arms with 1/2”x3” material, and the lower trailing arms may be replaced with 2”x3” material. Or you may reinforce the stock trailing arms. Factory trailing arm reinforcements must only be used to reinforce the factory trailing arms. Trailing arms must only attach to the frame and rearend, and must attach in the factory frame locations for the car, the same way it came from the factory.
All other rearend/ mounting rules still apply.

Tires:

Any tire/ rim combination allowed, pick your tire based on your running surface, solid tires will be allowed, doubled tires, foam filled, etc
4 tires max per car
All cars must have working brakes!